By Michel McNeese
Every August in Johnston County, people begin performing one of the strangest rituals in agriculture.
They walk up to a watermelon, lift it, knock on it with their knuckles, nod thoughtfully and then decide whether it is coming home with them.
Most of us learned this technique from a parent, grandparent or neighbor. Few of us could explain exactly what we’re listening for. Yet somehow, the tradition continues.
By August, watermelons seem to appear everywhere. They sit in neat rows at farmers markets, fill pickup truck beds beside country roads and occupy places of honor at church picnics, family reunions and backyard cookouts. Their abundance signals something important: summer has reached its peak.
Of all the fruits that define a Southern summer, watermelon may be the most anticipated.
Its story begins far from Johnston County. Watermelon traces its origins to Africa, where wild ancestors of the fruit grew thousands of years ago. Through trade and cultivation, watermelon spread throughout the Mediterranean and eventually reached the Americas. By the 18th century, it had become a familiar sight in Southern gardens and fields.
Our hot North Carolina summers proved ideal for growing it and generations of farmers embraced the crop. Today, few foods are more closely associated with August.
Of course, every watermelon buyer eventually faces the same question:
How do you know if it’s ripe?
The truth is that there is no single perfect test, despite what many of us were told growing up. Experienced growers often look for several clues.
A ripe watermelon should feel surprisingly heavy for its size. It should have a creamy yellow field spot where it rested on the ground while ripening. The skin should appear dull rather than shiny. And yes, many people still swear by the thump test.
The theory is simple. A ripe watermelon often produces a deeper, more hollow sound than an underripe one. Whether science or tradition, many Johnston County residents are unlikely to abandon the practice anytime soon.
And perhaps that is part of the charm.
Food traditions are not always about efficiency. Sometimes they connect us to the people who taught us, whether they were standing in a field, at a roadside stand or beside a kitchen table decades ago.
The reward for choosing well is simple. A great watermelon hardly needs a recipe.
A knife, a picnic table and a few family members are often enough.
But if you’re looking for something a little different, this salad combines sweet watermelon with creamy mozzarella, fresh basil and a light dressing. It is refreshing, beautiful and perfectly suited for a hot Johnston County afternoon.
Fresh Mozzarella Watermelon Salad
Serves 6
Ingredients
- 4 cups seedless watermelon, cut into bite-sized cubes
- 8 ounces fresh mozzarella pearls
- 1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, torn
- 2 tablespoons sliced scallions
- 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, optional
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- 2 cups mixed greens
Instructions
- Combine the watermelon, mozzarella, basil, and scallions in a large bowl.
- Drizzle with olive oil and toss gently.
- Season with salt and pepper.
- Arrange the mixed greens on a serving platter or individual plates.
- Spoon the watermelon mixture over the greens.
- Drizzle lightly with balsamic vinegar if desired.
- Serve immediately.
A Final Thought
Before long, the watermelons will disappear from roadside stands, children will return to school, and summer will begin yielding to autumn.
But for a few weeks each August, Johnston County belongs to watermelon season.
And whether you choose your melon by science, experience or a well-practiced thump, there is something satisfying about carrying one home and knowing that summer is still with us for a little while longer.
