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By Michel McNeese

There’s a moment in Johnston County when the tomato tables start appearing.

Not the full summer spread yet. Not the heavy, late-July abundance. Just a few baskets at the edge of a stand. A handwritten sign. Enough to make you slow down and take a look.

Most people wait.

They wait for the perfect tomato. The deep red, sun-warmed kind that slices clean and needs nothing but a pinch of salt.

But early tomatoes have something else to offer, if you know how to use them.

They’re brighter. A little sharper. Not quite sweet yet. And that makes them perfect for cooking.

Heat softens their edges. A little fat fills in what’s missing. Give them something savory to lean on, and they turn into something deeper than they ever could be raw.

This is the kind of dish that meets them where they are.

Early-season tomatoes don’t need to be perfect when you cook them. Blistering concentrates their flavor while keeping their brightness. The butter rounds everything out, and the chicken gives the dish structure, turning what could be a side into a full meal.

Blistered Tomato Basil Chicken Skillet

Serves 2–4

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 chicken breasts, sliced into thick strips
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 3 cups fresh tomatoes, chopped (mixed sizes if you have them)
• 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
• 1/3 cup fresh basil, torn
• Optional: squeeze of lemon or splash of vinegar

Method

1. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering.
2. Season chicken with salt and pepper, then cook in a single layer until deeply golden on one side before turning. Cook through, then remove from the pan and set aside.
3. In the same skillet, add tomatoes and garlic. Let them sit undisturbed for a minute or two so some edges begin to blister.
4. Stir and continue cooking until tomatoes soften and release their juices, about 5–7 minutes.
5. Add butter and red pepper flakes, stirring to bring everything together.
6. Return the chicken to the pan, along with any juices. Let it simmer for 2–3 minutes so the flavors settle.
7. Turn off heat and stir in fresh basil just before serving.
8. Taste and adjust with a squeeze of lemon or a splash of vinegar if needed.

At the Market

• Choose tomatoes that smell like something. If they don’t have a scent, they won’t have much flavor
• Store them on the counter, never in the refrigerator
• Slightly firm tomatoes are ideal for cooking, even if they’re not perfect for slicing

Bringing It to the Table

Serve this over rice, spoon it onto pasta, or tear off a piece of bread and let it catch the sauce. It doesn’t need much else.

That’s the point.

This is what early summer cooking looks like in Johnston County. Not perfect ingredients. Not complicated recipes.

Just knowing what to do with what’s in front of you.

Bio: Michel McNeese is the founder of Oak City Spice Blends in Johnston County. Known as “The Spice Keeper,” she brings more than 30 years of culinary experience to her work, helping home cooks turn everyday ingredients into flavorful, approachable meals.